The Marches is a region of Central Italy on the Adriatic side of the Umbria-Marches Apennines. Square in shape, its longer sides curve slightly north-east with the huge projection of the peninsula of Mount Conero. The Marches is the sixth smallest region in Italy and borders with Emilia-Romagna and the San Marino Republic to the north, Tuscany, Umbria and Latium to the west, Abruzzo to the south and lies on the Adriatic Sea to the east.
The region is mainly mountainous, although the groups are not particularly high: the highest mountain is Mount Vettore (2,476 m.) part of the Sibillini Mountains on the Umbrian border. From the ridge of the Apennines it slopes gradually towards the Adriatic coast, which for long stretches is flat and straight, a narrow ribbon of sand lying against the fringes of the hills beyond. Elsewhere it is steep, rocky and majestic. The mountainous interior was subjected to complex orogenic phenomena of subsidence and settling which over the centuries led to the formation of clefts and faults, and the landscape now has a great variety of forms with longitudinal and transverse valleys of alluvial origin in the Apennine range.
Apart from Nera, which flows into the Tyrrhenian Sea, the main rivers feed into the Adriatic. However, due to the proximity of the Apennines to the sea, the conformation of the river valleys and the irregular rainfall, their flow is rather short and of a torrential nature, catchment basins are underdeveloped and the rivers are not navigable. The most important rivers are the Marecchia, Conca, Foglia, Metauro, Cesano, Esino, Musone, Potenza, Chienti, Tenna, Aso and Tronto. The Marecchia and Conca debouch in Romagna; the high valley of the Tronto lies in Latium while its lower course forms the Abruzzo administrative boundary.
Temperature, winds, intensity and distribution of precipitations very considerably throughout the region, depending on the lie of the mountains, exposure to air currents and the marked differences in altitude of the coastal belt and inland mountains and between valley floors and the peaks. Along the coast the climate is mainly maritime with a limited temperature range and little rainfall; towards the interior, the temperature range increases as do precipitations, reaching as much as 2,000 mm/year in some limited mountainous areas. Snow is frequent in winter, mostly inland, while the rainiest seasons are generally spring and autumn.
The natural vegetation has been greatly modified by man, originally to obtain arable land, later for tourist resorts. The woods that once spread over most of the area now cover only 16.2% of the region.
A typical coastal environment is Mount Conero (572 m.), an isolated massif rising on the Adriatic Coast, composed of calcareous rock, marl and sandstone. The massif is steep towards the sea but slopes smoothly inland. In ancient times it was covered with thick woods, in perfect harmony with the vegetation and fauna of both Apennines and coast. Nowadays, as a result of the extensive urbanization of coastal and hilly areas, it stands like a green island surrounded by wasteland. The famous woods were cut down at random and have almost disappeared, though interesting examples of luxuriant vegetation still survive. Holm oaks grow plentifully together with cane apples and rare examples of Mediterranean maquis. In the most despoiled areas, the Mediterranean maquis has been replaced by garigue with rockrose, sharp cedar, broom and helichrysum. The Portonovo lakes have a mass of ditch reeds, sedges, water-weeds and pondweed. The fauna is scanty, and mainly consists of foxes, badgers, hedgehogs, some weasels and nocturnal birds of prey.
Sibillini Mountains on the Umbrian border is a typical Apennine environment, though partly spoilt by tourist resort construction. Woods of white oak, manna-ash and hornbeam mantle the lowest slopes, while on the peaks lie large beechwoods, together with sycamores, yews and holly oak. The mountain flora is rich and rare; outstanding examples are the Apennine wormwood, the Apennine edelweiss and the fritillary. In spite of a decline in wildlife of over the last few decades, a few examples of local fauna still survive: Apennine wolves, wild cats and otters together with larges numbers of foxes, martens, stonemartens, badgers and weasels, as well as porcupines, which have recently increased in number. Remarkable birds are the golden eagle, falcon and goshawk; reptiles include Orsini vipers and smooth snakes. A distinctive indigenous denizen of the Lake of Pilato is the Marchesoni chirocephalus crustacean.
Recently, the important underground environment of the Frasassi caves was discovered. These caves are situated in the Valley of Sentino near Frasassi Gorge, north of Fabriano and, as far as is known, extend for 15 km. underground. They are still being explored, and form an extraordinary karst group, with pits, swallow holes, underground lakes and phantasmagoric shapes, stalactites and stalagmites, marble columns and cascades of alabaster crystals that are an extremely beautiful sight. On the walls of Frasassi Gorge a rare example of flora can be found: the ephedra major, a true relic of the Cenozoic Era.
Analysis of the regional population does not indicate a great degree of urbanization in the Marches. Ancona, the administrative centre, is the only town with over 100,000 inhabitants; even the demographic situation in the four provinces is fairly balanced. On the other hand, excluding administrative partitions, a difference can be seen immediately between population density on the densely inhabited coast and hills, and that in the inland mountainous areas which are steadily becoming depopulated, as woodlands and sheep-rearing are no longer remunerative.
Infraregional migration has thus been towards the many craft businesses on the hills and the factories and tourist attractions along the coast. Apart from those in the provinces, the main urban settlements are Fano, Iesi, Fermo, Civitanova Marche, San Benedetto del Tronto and Senigallia, all with over 30,000 inhabitants.
The Marches dialects can be divided into four main groups: the Emilia-Romagna dialect prevails to the north (province of Pesaro and part of the province of Ancona); in the centre (Ancona, Loreto, Iesi, Fabriano) the dialect is a mixture of northern and Umbrian-Tuscan features; a little farther south (province of Macerata, Fermo) the Umbrian-Latian type prevails; in the far south (province of Ascoli) the inflection acquires southern characteristics, especially those of Abruzzo.
As far as the economy is concerned, statistical data indicate that the standard of living in the Marches is slightly below the national average. However, environmental conditions appear to be very satisfactory, given the absence of large industrial and urban concentrations, generally the source of high levels of pollution.
Though farming methods are not particularly efficient, agriculture still employs one sixth of the working population. There are two main reasons for this: farmers are strongly attached to their land and small craft businesses (nearly 50,000) often offer part-time jobs or work at home, so that farming is a spare time activity.
Even full-time farmers sometimes produce wooden, pottery, wrought-iron, straw and wicker articles. The share-cropping system too helped to delay the development of agriculture (this as changed only recently), as did the low acreage of farms. The most important crops are: wheat, sugar-beet, cauliflowers, fennel and olives. Livestock resources are rather limited, while fishing is greatly developed (1/10 of national fish production, 1/7 of mussels and shellfish).
Industry spreads mainly along the coast and mussels traditionally characterized by the semi-craft system, although in the last few decades, large concerns have undergone development, particularly near ports. The most important industries footwear, textiles, furniture, paper (Fabriano), musical instruments (Castelfidardo), mechanical products (Pesaro), tinned food, ships and boats (Ancona), petrolchemicals (Falconara), electromechanical instruments and chemicals. The regional production of electricity is fairly low.
Trade is reasonably lively and often linked to agricultural products. The transport, banking and insurance sectors are steadily increasing. The tourist flow towards seaside resorts is high in summer.
Due to the morphology of the area, communications are sufficiently well developed along the coast, with the Bologna-Bari motorway and railway, though still inadequate in the interior. Ancona-Falconara is the only passenger airport. The port of Ancona handles a large amount of shipping and some passenger traffic, especially in summer.
The Marches are generally renowned for their famous seaside resorts. From north to south, the most important are: Gabicce Mare, Fano, Marotta, Senigallia (the famous `Velvet Beach'), Sirolo (situated in the rocky Riviera del Conero), Numana, Porto Recanati, Civitanova Marche, Porto S. Elpidio, Porto S. Giorgio, Cupra Marittima, Grottammare and S. Benedetto del Tronto.
The presence of so many seaside resorts, often rich in artistic attractions, leads one to forget the countless other interesting places in the region. However, towards the hilly inland, lie various little towns as yet undiscovered by mass tourism, in spite of their historical artistic and cultural importance; indeed, they are well worth including in delightful tours through gentle relaxing scenery.
Picturesque ancient villages are often found on hilltops, frequently dominated by an old castle or tower or surrounded by thick walls. From north to south, the first is S. Leo in Montefeltro, with its imposing 14th century fortress and the Romanesque parish church; to the south stands Sassocorvaro with the Fortress of Ubaldini, masterpiece of 14th century military architecture; further south Urbania, with its interesting 14th-15th century centre, and Fossombrone, with Renaissance buildings. Passing through the suggestive Furlo Gorge (Galleria Romana) one reaches Cagli, a little town of great environmental interest with its 13th-14th century Town Hall; from here one can take a short trip to the lonely Camaldolese Monastery of Fonte Avellana at the foot of Mount Catria (1,701 m.).
In the province of Ancona the first town one comes to is Sassoferrato, with its interesting medieval centre and Gothic church of St. Francis (in the surrounding area the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Sentinum). On the way back to the coast from Sassoferrato, one passes through Cingoli, with its wonderful landscape and interesting urban structure; Recanati, Leopardi's hometown, Osimo and its beautiful brass font (17th century) inside the Baptistry; Iesi, surrounded by 13th century walls, with the Renaissance Palazzo della Signoria. Further south, lies Fabriano (Tapestry Museum), then Camerino, seat of an ancient University, Tolentino, with St. Nicholas's Basilica (13th-15th century) and outstanding frescoes, and S. Ginesio (Romanesque-Gothic Collegiate Church). In the province of Ascoli, one can visit Amandola at the foot of Sibillini Mountains; then heading towards the sea, reach Offida, with the Church of Santa Maria della Rocca (14th century); the little medieval town of Ripatransone, with the narrowest lane in Italy (38-43 cm. wide) and Fermo, near the Adriatic Sea, with an imposing Romanesque-Gothic cathedral and the wonderful Piazza del Popolo.
Beautiful natural scenery is another attraction of the region; and the Conero headland and Caves of Frasassi, already mentioned in the Introduction, are outstanding. But the Marches is also a mountainous region (the Sibillini Mountains range) with good skiing resorts, such as Forca Canapine, Ussita, Sarnano and Piobbico. There are also several health spas with good hotel facilities: Acquasanta Terme with sodium bromide waters used in the treatment of arthritis and respiratory disorders; Sarnano with bicarbonate alkaline waters for illnesses of the urinary tract; Aspio Terme, where four springs with different properties enable a wide range of treatment to be made available; Carignano Terme, near Fano, with sodium bromide waters for metabolic and gastric disorders.
Loreto has a special role in tourism in the Marches; the Sanctuary Church of the Holy House, rich in works of art, has been the destination of millions of pilgrims for centuries.
The administrative centre of the region lies on the lowest northern slopes of M. Conero, which slope down to the sea, forming a wide natural bay.
The town is of Greek origin; its name comes from the Greek word Àncon' (elbow), from the shape of the bay. It passed under Roman influence in the 3rd century BC. and became increasingly important, particularly under the Emperor Trajan, who made it one of the biggest harbours in the Mediterranean. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was ruled by the Byzantines and Lombards, then by the Church, although it succeeded in maintaining a degree of autonomy for centuries. From the 12th to 16 th centuries, Ancona went through a troubled period, being the scene of struggles between Emperors, Popes and local overlords. In the 13th century, the town expanded within a circle of walls surrounding the Astagno hill, its real development began in the 15th century, when it started to spread along the coast. In 1532 the town lost its autonomy and was finally annexed to the Papal States, whose fortunes it shared until 1860, when it became part of the Kingdom of Italy. During World War II it was heavily bombarded and in 1972 an earthquake damaged the ancient city centre and most of the monuments.
The monuments include: Trajan's Arch (2nd century AD.), Duomo of St. Ciriaco on mt. Guasco (11th century, the Cathedral Romanesque, on the site of an early Christian building), Church of S. Maria della Piazza (12th century, Romanesque), Loggia dei Mercanti (15th century), San Francesco delle Scale (14th century, with a beautiful Gothic-Venetian portal, repaired after the earthquake), Palazzo del Senato (13th-15th century), Palazzo del Governo (14th century).
The economy of the town is based on the services sector and on a busy industrial sector: shipyards, metallurgicals and engineering, chemicals and food manufacturing. Port activities, fishing and tourism are also of note.
Events: Trade Fair (June), International Fishing Exhibition (June), Nautical Exhibition of the Adriatic Sea, Biennal Exhibition of Satirical Cartoons, Wind Instrument Contest (Ancona Prize).
Famous People: Cinzio Benincasa (scholar, 1450-1507), Benvenuto Stracca (lawyer, 1509-1578), Andrea Lilli (artist, 1555-1610), Luigi Albertini (journalist and politician 1871-1941).
Cultural Institutions: State Archives, Diocesan Museum (Sarcophagus of Gorgonio, 4th century), National Museum of the Marches (archeological remains from the Iron Age and objects dating back to Roman times), Podesti Art Gallery (including paintings by Tiziano, Andrea del Sarto, L. Lotto, Guercino), University.
In the Province: Senigallia (seaside resort), Falconara Marittima (industrial centre), Fabriano (paper industry, Paper and Watermark Museum), Iesi (silk manufacturing, interesting environment), Chiaravalle (Gothic-Cistercian Abbey, 12th century), Castelfidardo (manufacture of musical instruments).
The town is situated at 154 m. above sea level on an alluvial terrace near the con Fluence of the Castellano and Tronto rivers, about 30 km. from the Adriatic coast.
It was founded by the Piceni and conquered by the Romans in 286 BC. However, a rebellion broke out in 91 BC. at the time of the Social Wars, but was quelled two years later. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Ascoli Piceno was ruled by the Lombards until 774, when the Franks gave it to the Church. During the Middle Ages it was ruled by the Bishops and later (12th century) became a free municipality. In 1242 Frederick II of Swabia conquered Ascoli, but a few years later it again passed under Papal rule, although the power of the Church was only nominal, as the town was governed by various local lords. Only in 1426 did Ascoli become definitively part of the Papal States and share their fortunes until 1860, when it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy.
The town's medieval urban structure repeats the ancient Roman orthogonal plan and is still clearly visible. Modern suburbs have developed this century beyond the rivers.
The monuments include: Baptistry (12th century, Romanesque), St. Vincent and St. Anastasio (11th-14th century, Romanesque), St. Francis (Gothic, 13th-16th century), Loggia dei Mercanti (16th century), Palace dei Capitani del Popolo (16th century), Duomo (15th-18th century with a valuable 1473 polyptych by Carlo Crivelli), Ponte di Solestà (Roman, Augustian period), Palazzetto Longobardo (12th century), various medieval and Renaissance churches and buildings.
From an economic point of view, Ascoli is an active trading centre for agricultural products (cereals, vegetables, fruit and olives) but it also has building, chemical, paper-manufacturing, engineering, textile and food industries. The service sector is important as is tourism, attracted by the town's artistic heritage and folklore as well as by the nearby Montagna dei Fiori (1,676 m.), a winter holiday resort.
Events: Quintain Tournament with Renaissance Costumes (August), Carnival.
Famous People: Francesco Stabili, called `Cecco d'Ascoli' (poet and astrologer, 1269-1327), Antonio Bonfini (humanist and historian, 1427-1505), Ludovico Trasi (artist, 1634-1695), Antonio Orsini (naturalist, 1788-1870).
Cultural Institutions: State Archives, Archeological Museum, Diocesan Museum, Civic Art Gallery (with works by Guercino, Strozzi, Van Dyck, among others).
In the Province: Fermo (interesting environment, Polar Museum), S. Benedetto del Tronto (seaside resort and fishing port), S. Elpidio a Mare (Bucket Contest with 14th century costumes).
The town is situated in a dominating position at 314 m. above sea level on the ridges between the parallel Potenza and Chienti river valleys; about 30 km. from the Adriatic coast.
It was probably founded in the 5th century AD. after the nearby Roman town of Helvia Ricina had been destroyed. It became a free municipality in 1138 and was the scene of struggles between Emperors and Popes. In the second half of the 13th century it became part of the papal dominions, though retaining some autonomy, due to the presence of various overlords (Mulucci, Varano da Camerino, Sforza). Macerata shared the vicissitudes of the Papal States until it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
The ancient area of the town is still partly surrounded by walls (14th-15th century) and has an interesting urban structure planned to harmonize with the hilly ground. There are countless 16th-18th century noble buildings. The modern town spreads over the surrounding hills.
The monuments include: Loggia dei Mercanti (16th century), Palazzo del Governo (16th century), Town Hall (17th century with 18th century additions), Palazzo del Comune (18th century), Sanctuary of the Madonna della Misericordia (17th-18th century), Spheristerion (18th century, a ball-court). Six kilometres from the town lie the ruins of Helvia Ricina, which can be visited.
The town's economy is still based on agricultural products (cereals, vegetables, fruit), traded in Macerata, together with livestock resources (cattle, pigs). Banking and transport are fairly well developed while industry is active in the building, engineering, food manufacturing and furniture sectors.
Events: Summer opera season at the Spheristerion, exhibitions of international renown.
Famous People: Matteo Ricci (missionary and sinologist, 1552-1610), Giovanni Maria Crescimbeni (scholar, 1663-1728), Lauro Rossi (musician, 1810-1885).
Cultural Institutions: University, L. Rossi Municipal Theatre, State Archives, Civic Library, Civic Museum and Art Gallery.
In the Province: Civitanova Marche (seaside resort), Tolentino, Camerino (University, interesting environment), S. Ginesio (Mid-August Palio, folk entertainment in local costumes).
The town faces the Adriatic coast, at the exit of the River Foglia valley.
Of ancient origin, it entered the Roman sphere of influence in 184 BC. with the name of Pisaurum and became an important trading centre during the Imperial period. It was then invaded by Goths, Byzantines, Lombards and Franks, who gave it to the Church in 774 together with the other Penthapolis towns. During the Middle Ages it was the scene of struggles between Emperors and Popes, though ruled in fact by various overlords: Malatesta, Sforza, Borgia, Della Rovere, Medici and again Della Rovere (12th-14th-15th-16th centuries) until annexed to the Papal Dominions in 1631. Pesaro then shared the vicissitudes of the Papal States until it became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. Its urban structure developed within successive circles of walls and has now spread widely along the coast and on the inland hills.
The monuments include: the Palazzo Ducale (15th century), Costanza Fortress (14th century), St. Francis Church (14th century), St. Augustine Church (15th century); in the surrounding area (4 km) the Imperial Villa-Castle (15th-16th century, with a beautiful park).
The economy of the town is based on a flourishing trade in cereals, vegetables and cattle from the interior, and on lively industries in the metallurgical and engineering (motorbikes), furniture, shipyard, housing construction and food manufacturing sectors.
There is considerable tourism particularly along the coast. Traditional crafts are majolica and pottery making.
Events: International Exhibition of New Cinema, Rossini Opera Festival (August-September), National Festival of Drama; Furniture Exhibition (May).
Famous People: Gioacchino Rossini (composer, 1792-1868), Terenzio Mamiani (scholar, 1799-1885), Antonio Cecchi (explorer, 1849-1896), Simone Contarini (artist, 1612-1648).
Cultural Institutions: Library and Oliveriani Museum (archeology), Rossini Museum, Academy of Music, Municipal Museums (Paintings and Pottery Museum), Rossini Theatre, House of Rossini.
In the Province: Fano (seaside resort, Arch of Augustus, the Malatesta Castle), Gradara (13th-15th century fortress), Pergola (interesting environment).
The town is situated on the ridge of a hill (485 m.) separating the Metauro Valley from the Foglia.
It was founded by the Romans (Urbinum Metaurense) and later dominated by the Byzantines and Lombards until the Franks gave it to the Papal States; together with the other Penthapolis towns (774). However for centuries the power of the Church was nominal and the town was often an ally of the Emperors. From 1155 to 1508, its history was that of the Montefeltro overlords; later it was ruled by the Della Roveres until 1631, when it finally became part of the Papal States, it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
The urban layout of Urbino is particularly interesting; the town is surrounded by a circle of ramparts built for Duke Francesco Maria I in 1507. Although not always of artistic interest, the palatial buildings in the old centre date back to the 15th-16th centuries and give the town an architecturally homogeneous character, not easily found in larger towns.
An outstanding monument is the Palazzo Ducale, seat of the Montefeltro family, an important example of Renaissance architecture; the buildings surround a beautiful courtyard, and the famous façade, with its twin towers, is the symbol of the town. Other remarkable monuments are the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista (14th century, with outstanding frescoes), the Oratorio di San Giuseppe (16th century, with a coeval stucco crib), Church of San Francesco (14th century, Romanesque-Gothic with later additions), the House of Raffaello (15th century), the Gothic Church of St. Domini (14th century).
Inthetown'seconomy,industryisoflimitedimportance(building materials, metal casting) as is agriculture, while tourism, and cultural activities associated with the local university, are highly developed.
Events: Various art exhibitions, Kite Day (September).
Famous People: Girolamo Genga (artist, sculptor and architect 1476-1551), Raffaello Sanzio (artist, 1483-1520), Federico Barocci (artist, 1535-1612), Antonio Viviani (artist, 1560-1620), Alessandro Vitali (artist, 1580-1640), Federico da Montefeltro (military leader, 1422-1482).
Cultural Institutions: National Gallery of the Marches (one of the most important art galleries in Italy, in the Palazzo Ducale, with paintings by Piero della Francesca, Raffaello, Tiziano, Paolo Uccello, Luca Signorelli, Melozzo da Forlì, Guercino, and others), the Raffaello Academy, State School of Art, Sanzio Theatre, School of Fine Arts, University, Raffaello House-Museum.
In the Province: Pennabili and Carpegna (holiday resorts).